Start-up Brands vs Established Brands

In my 17+ years in the fashion industry, I’ve had the privilege of working with both global corporations and passionate first-time founders. On paper, developing a product may look the same — tech packs, sampling, revisions, production. But the reality is that working with a startup versus an established brand couldn’t be more different.

With 15 years of corporate design experience with industry leaders like Bioworld and Mad Engine, I thought starting a clothing line would be straightforward. In reality, I attempted it seven times — and each effort felt like one step forward, two steps back.

Those challenges gave me something far more valuable than shortcuts: perspective. Black Unicorn exists today because of those lessons, and it’s why I can guide founders through the pitfalls I once faced myself. One of the biggest lessons? Startups require a very different level of support than established brands.


Large, established brands come to the table with systems, processes, and teams already in place. They know their customer, have budgets allocated, and operate with a rhythm that factories and designers are familiar with. The pace can be demanding, but there’s comfort in knowing the expectations are clear.

If something goes wrong — a color is off, a fabric is late — there’s usually a protocol for handling it. The brand has enough history and volume to absorb minor setbacks without losing momentum.


Startups, on the other hand, are often entering this world for the first time. Every detail feels monumental because every sample, every decision, is a test of confidence. They don’t just need execution — they need education, reassurance, and partnership.

This article in Glam Observer highlights the nuances of working for an established company versus a fashion startup, and it reinforces what I’ve seen firsthand: how very different they each are.

A recent email to one of my factory partners illustrates this perfectly. I wrote:

“Start-up clients require more handholding and reassurance than your bigger clients. I have shown that I am willing to pay for your trouble, but in return I need better customer service. Jerties has never done this before, so it is my job to give him confidence that he can spend $100,000+ in orders. A second round of samples was needed to give my client the confidence that my vendors could execute this.”

That moment was a reminder: while established brands can survive small missteps, startups cannot. Their trust is fragile, and without it, there is no order.


Black Unicorn Merchandising has built a reputation as a leading authority in apparel design, sourcing, and production for both startups and established labels. Whether you’re an emerging founder or a seasoned brand looking for support, we’re here to serve.

👉 To help startups take their first steps, I’ll share my Purchase Order (PO) Template with any founder who needs it. Comment "PO Please" in the comments I’ll send it your way and throw in a 15 minute consult.